According to the Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue of Cosmetics, exfoliator is defined as the efficacy that helps to promote the exfoliation of skin keratin or promote keratin renewal.
There are three main types of exfoliator methods in terms of principle: physical exfoliator, chemical exfoliator, and biological exfoliator. According to the Standard for the Evaluation of Efficacy Claims of Cosmetics, if the exfoliator efficacy is only achieved through physical method, and it is clearly indicated as a physical effect on the label, the submission of product efficacy claim evaluation data can be exempted. For non-physical exfoliator efficacy claims, you must choose at least one from human efficacy evaluation tests, consumer use tests, and laboratory tests, while combining literature or research data for efficacy claim evaluation, and publish the summary of efficacy claims basis.
At present, China NMPA (National Medical Products Administration) has not yet issued a unified human efficacy evaluation method and standard for exfoliator efficacy. The standards that industry testing institutions and laboratories can refer to: T/GDCDC 032-2023 Method for exfoliating effect of cosmetics.
This article aims to introduce the human evaluation test for exfoliator efficacy of cosmetics.
Principle:
Evaluate the cosmetic exfoliator efficacy by observing changes in skin exfoliation before and after product use.
Test instrument:
VC20 Corneofix
Test design:
Select 30 qualified subjects to use samples, set measurement intervals, and then measure three times at different locations within the measurement area of the sample application area and the control area with obtaining skin stratum corneum cell exfoliation index, and the average values are taken as the measurement values.
Multiple measurement time points can be set according to product evaluation needs, and the entire testing cycle should be at least 6 weeks.
Conclusion:
Positive: There is a significant improvement in skin stratum corneum cell exfoliation index measured by the test instrument before and after using the product (p<0.05), indicating that the test sample has the exfoliator efficacy.
Negative: There is no significant improvement in skin stratum corneum cell exfoliation index measured by the test instrument before and after using the product (p≥0.05), indicating that the test sample doesn’t have the exfoliator efficacy.
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